201广式饼食之莲香楼鸡仔饼

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  鸡仔饼,原名“小凤饼”,据说是清咸丰年间伍紫垣家有一名叫小凤的女工所创制。在半个世纪之后,广州河南成珠茶楼因中秋月饼滞销,于是制饼师傅把制月饼的原料按小凤饼的方法制作出新品种“成珠小凤饼”来,因而受到顾客青睐。后来莲香楼的制饼师傅陈棠和罗修品尝过小凤饼后,发现小凤饼虽然风味独特,但是由于小凤饼没有饼皮与馅料之分,所以饼的口感不够松脆而且颜色中夹杂着馅料的颜色,影响了饼的外观。莲香楼的制饼师傅们经过不断研究,终于制成以冰肉、南乳、瓜子仁和芝麻为馅做出莲香楼鸡仔饼,把鸡仔饼这一传统食品进一步发扬光大。2007年获中国食品工业协会颁发的“首届中国烘焙食品节金奖”;2009年被广东省食品文化遗产认定委员会认定为“广东省食品文化遗产”;2010年被中国烘焙食品糖制品工业协会评为“2010年全国餐饮烘焙业经典手信”;被中国食品工业协会评为“金牌糕点”。莲香楼鸡仔饼已成为莲香楼的集体结晶,不可分割的文化遗产。
  鸡仔饼是广东四大名饼之一。其外形酷似国画大师齐白石老人笔下正在俯首觅食的小鸡。其口感丰富,外脆内软,油而不腻。其滋味咸甜兼备,甘香味浓,细经咀嚼才逐渐分辨出蒜茸的辛香、南乳的鲜香、芝麻的油香、肥肉的甘香。吃完后隐藏在牙缝里、舌底下、嘴角边的美味余香不断,久久萦绕。因此,它既适宜佐茶,也适宜佐酒甚至佐膳,在饼饵一族中堪称出类拔萃,令人青睐有加。

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